![]() When I had modified my plumbing, for the Herbie, and ajusted the valves, I successfuly tested the system at the Darts full capacity, which I would estimate to be around 2800 GPH. ![]() I run a DART 3600 GPH return pump on my system (with about 5' of head pressure). As with the Bean, should the siphon pipe fail/clog, the water would rise, just enough to create a siphon and keep water levels in check, and successfuly maintain flow to sump. I'm just trying to hear a little more discussion about all of these ideas to see what's been working for people, what they would change about their own setups, what they think is totally unnecessary or even detrimental for the overflow setup etc etc.Ĭlick to expand.Just as with the Bean system, the Herbie system incorporates a full siphon (my right pipe) and an air/"oxygen" pipe (my left pipe). So drilling one extra hole doesnt seem like a big deal and building a coast to coast overflow actually sounds easier than building a traditional overflow box. I know there is some debate about using coast to coast overflows and I haven't looked into that at all, so that could be a major contributing factor to using or not using this system.Īlso I'm going off the assumption that when I upgrade I'll be taking an un-drilled tank and doing all the work myself. I dunno.I'm still probably a good couple of months (at least) off from upgrading my tank and I have more research and planning to do to in the meantime, but so far im still thinking that this bean system seems like a really good idea. Maybe the guy is just a really convincing writer, but other than the idea that it's an extra hole/bulkhead and a larger overflow box, I don't really see a reason not to go for it? Too much flow through the sump maybe? But I think that would only apply if the fuge is in-line rather than having its own adjustable feed. The bean system is using a full siphon plus what amounts to a pipe for oxygen.the herbie system combines these two so you have to set the flow low enough that the balance of water to air is makes for silent operation.Įach system seems to have its merits and I can definitely see where the bean could be a bit of overkill for anything smaller than say a 180 or so. Assuming they're each as silent as the other, that is. Well, obviously I don't have the experience with either system (I guess mine is pretty close to a herbie just without a fail safe and with a ball valve instead of a higher quality gate?).īut it seems to me that the main difference would be the flow capability. I think if this system operates like Im understanding from reading, I would want it on anything 75g and up.only reason for not putting it on anything smaller would be space lost to the overflow and less requirement for flow through the sump. I do have my system running very quietly right now with nothing but a straight stand pipe in the overflow box, but I also have no fail safe and a flow rate that's very limited by the desired noise level (and the capability of the overflow box but that's not as relevant).Īlso, so far as requiring a bigger overflow box, he makes a good argument for the coast to coast style overflow which makes that irrelevant. What he describes in his write up (and what lines up with my very limited experience) is that a single pipe system can't be as silent AND as consistent as this system because 100% of the flow plus the oxygen have to make it down the same pipe. I think the main points here are that you have one pipe that runs at a full siphon and a second just trickles down. When you hear water tricking through it, you know you need to open up the valve on the main drain line to let the "plug/debris" pass through. This is in case something plugs up your main drain line. The other (second) drain line is near the top of your tank is a backup drain line that has NO valve on it. This is dead silent, but it's still skimming the water's surface because the water line in your overflow is only about halfway or 2/3 full. In other words, you are tightening the valve on your drain line so that your pump's output is matched almost exactly by your drain line's water flow. As you tighten it up, the water in your overflow chamber will start to raise up a few inches over the top of your main drain pipe. You use the gate valve to CAREFULLY tighten up on the water flow going through the main drain line. Inside the overflow chamber, this drain pipe only goes up about halfway up. The main drain will have a very good quality gate valve (NOT cheap ball valve) on the end of it where it goes into your sump. One main drain line, one backup drain line. Honestly I think there is a more simple way of doing it, as long as you do have an overflow chamber in your tank.
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